This year the Covid-19 pandemic has and will influence every religious observance and festival. It is a severe blow to traditional worship in any religion. For millions of Islamic devotees in their sacred month of fasting, the year 2020 poses many challenges. As a Christian, I can assume the biggest setback for Muslims will be their inability for congregational prayers at mosques. However the curfew must be strictly adhered to, as it is the best way to contain the spread of the virus. It is of great importance that we respect the medical guidelines and follow social distancing.
Having visited the Colombo Grand Mosque and the famous Red Mosque at Pettah, last year on media tasks I have understood the importance of this ritual of fasting to all Muslim families.
Timeless traditions
A prudent Moulavi (Islamic clergy) once taught me, that the ninth month of the Islamic calendar heralds the period of fasting. It is a time of deep spiritual reflection, renunciation and devotion.
The word Ramadan is derived from the Arabic word ramadi- meaning dryness. For centuries followers of Islam faithfully adhere to the sacred fast: whilst working, going to school or
attending university. Fasting is observed from sunrise to sunset. The observance is one of the 5 pillars of Islam. Iftar- is the symbolic meal that breaks the days fast. In keeping with tradition the fast is broken by eating 3 dates. This is followed by drinking rice based porridge or one can indulge in a glass of faluda, chilled milk infused with sweet rose essence. This remains a global culinary tradition.
Arabic food can be traced back to centuries. There was an era in history when nations like Turkey and Iraq were prominent for trade, with rich merchants. The Iftar menus were strongly influenced by the Persian and Turkish civilizations. With the region positioned on the cross roads of the spice route, Arabian dishes displayed refined taste and skillful preparation. They are loaded with flavour.
Ancient adherents of Islam based their food on pine nuts, dates, eggplant, cinnamon, rice, sugar, sesame, and saffron. In terms of meat there was an abundance of beef, mutton and poultry. The ancient Arabs also used a mortar and pestle to crush their garlic and spices, as seen in many regions of Asia.
Some of the ancient dishes used at Iftar include- milk, water and dates-Muslims traditionally break their fast by consuming any of these foods, in adherence to the teachings of the Prophet Mohammed. Some ancient recipes may have been altered to suit local ingredients. Erk Soos - extracts of the liquorice plant are mixed with water to make this drink that is served in Egypt and the Levant (Jordan, Lebanon, Palestine and Syria). Tamar Hindi, is a sour chilled drink is usually sold throughout the year in several Arab countries. Jellab was a syrup made of grape molasses mixed with rose water and sugar, then poured over ice and decorated with pine nuts.
We can assume this drink is replicated in today’s Sharwat (sherbet), served in glasses. The rice-based dish of Biryani infused with chunks of beef, goat meat or chicken make up an integral part of Ramadan meals. This succulent Biriyani has made a strong influence on Sri Lankan cuisine, and is served at weddings and celebrations by even non- Muslim communities. This is how food can beautifully connect ethnic groups together, bypassing religious boundaries.
From Beruwela and beyond
Two years ago I visited the famous Ketchimalai Mosque at Beruwela. Many Islamic clergy opine that this is one of the oldest mosques in Ceylon. This was because Arabic ships initially berthed at the port of Beruwela centuries ago. It is these Muslim mariners who spread their food to our island. Since then many of these recipes have been modified to suit present trends. To this day areas like Galle and Beruwela have their own signature dishes.
Today the hit in Colombo is the succulent pot biriyani, with Pakistani origins. Stuffed vegetables peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, zucchinis are stuffed with flavored rice to make what is commonly known in the Islamic world as Mahshi.
It is very famous in Egypt. Couscous is a North African dish of granulated semolina, served with meat, chicken, fish or vegetables. Kunafa, is a sweet made from spun shredded wheat, it can be filled with cream, cheese, or nuts and raisins.
Atayef, once famous in Egypt, is an Arabic pancake usually filled with nuts, and served with a sugary syrup or honey. During Ramadan popular green salads include Fattoush and Tabbouleh. Bean dishes such as Hummus (chickpeas) are also common, because they keep people full for long periods. While these original dishes maybe hard to make, local housewives display their own versions of fine food.
Delights in Colombo
One of the beautiful memories of Ramadan comes from visiting my dear friend Ruzain Wadood. I have been able to join his family in Colombo and Maggona on a few occasions to enjoy the fellowship and brotherhood of breaking the fast. Every year some of my friends used to cruise around Colombo, enjoying Islamic food sold opposite mosques. In Maradana and Slave Island areas you can witness vendors pushing carts selling deep fried samosa and rolls filled with beef and mutton. Driving towards Hulftsdorp we encountered the “night kade” run by Naleer Haji, an obliging soul who kept his venue open till 2 am. Here customers enjoyed his signature dishes – adduku rotti, layers of crisp rotti filled with minced meat and the famous dolphin kottu (dolphin here does not have any meat of the ocean dolphin, the origin of this name for the dish is a mystery). Served in a large plate almost six people can share this meal. Another culinary temptation is the babath (tripe curry) and pittu, which is of Malay origin. Another favorite of Ramadan is the Wattalappan, a jaggery infused dessert which is populat among all communities.
This year we will miss the culinary essence of Ramadan and Eid to a certain extent. Yet as the prudent Moulavi of the Colombo Grand Mosque said last year ““Ramadan is observed out of sincere faith. It teaches us self-discipline and we spend more time with family during this month. It’s a holy month that
brings us together, it is a month to revive the faith and connect with Allah on a spiritual level strengthening that connection”. As we observe the curfew, may we each draw on our religion and enrich the unity of our beloved Motherland Sri Lanka.
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